If you imagine that the half of the rainforest is cut down you will admit that there has to be a better way we construct our houses. There is a lot of choices but first thing coming to mind is the cost. Believe it or not you can get a sustainable hardwood floor such as bamboo that is less expensive than any other hardwood floor on the market. There are companies of bamboo floor in Hawaii and China and other Asian countries. Bamboo is actually a grass and grows extremely fast it can grow one meter per day. The process of making a floor board is a little bit longer then just cutting a regular three so you would think the cost will be higher as well. This is not true bamboo is very inexpensive floor.

You can call up a local hardwood floor contractor if you have questions or visit hardwood floor showroom to see how the floors look. Bamboo is hollow inside so the first companies that have started to produce bamboo flooring in Hawaii and China have cut the small strips and glued it together so it became a wide solid piece. First and most popular bamboo floors were just natural and carbonized, vertical and horizontal. Natural had a light color much like maple. Carbonized bamboo is the same product just exposed to a high temperature, this made the wood darker. Those were the first options since the staining of bamboo was very hard to do. Nowadays there is a wide range of bamboo flooring. You can choose from stained bamboo this will give you an option of different colors, you can choose from wide and narrow boards, you can find bamboo floor that can be installed over the concrete sub floor, wooden sub floor and even flooring heating system. You can find hand scraped bamboo flooring. The newest product is strand bamboo, which is extremely hard, it has a nice contemporary look it is very compact and this makes it very hard, it is widely used in the commercial flooring and can take very high traffic. The two big sources China and Hawaii remain the leaders in producing the environmental hardwood floor that is very easy to install, the floor boards are very often the same dimensions, as domestic oak floor or maple so your contractor can use exactly the same tools he uses for domestic flooring. Bamboo floor can be refinished, this a big plus, most bamboo floors are sold prefinished so you don’t have to deal with dust the first time you install it. If you looking for an unfinished floor, there are companies offering unfinished bamboo floors, I am sure your local hardwood floor contractor can help you with finding right bamboo floor. Just make sure you call licensed contractor so you will get the professional service.

Cork floor is another option if you looking for an eco friendly flooring product. Cork flooring is widely used in the kitchens, it is usually floating so it can be installed over any kind of sub floors, if comes in different colors, designs and patterns.

You can find a company that recycles old wood, demolishing old barns or just finds the old flooring on the construction sites, this is one of the most sustainable methods it is like using the same metal spoon over and over again without producing more plastic. Hardwood floors companies like this collect wood from the job sites and prepare it for the next installation. This is most of the time unfinished old floor that has to be installed by professional and skilled wood worker, sanded and finished, you have an option of staining the wood to any color you want. Make sure you are hiring skilled flooring contractor, if you are woodworker and would like to do it yourself make a research before making a final decision. This might be very fulfilling and satisfying project.

Prevention is always best.

It is always easier to prevent serious damage to your floors than it is to mend it. These tips will help you prevent dirt from damaging your floors.

Use mats and area rugs at each entrance to capture dirt that might get tracked in. Tiny particles of dirt and sand will damage the finish on your hardwood floors, and those tiny scratches collect dirt so that your floor requires more frequent cleaning. Placing mats or area rugs at each entrance to the room will keep the dirt off your floors and keep them looking new longer.
Do not use rubber-backed or non-ventilated rugs. They can damage your floor. Instead, look for mats made specifically for hardwood floors.
Shake the mats out regularly so that dirt does not work its way through them to damage the floor beneath.
Mop up all spills promptly to avoid damage to the finish or the wood.
Avoid sun damage by using window treatments or awnings, and regularly rotate furniture and rugs so that the entire floor ages evenly.
Put floor protectors on furniture and table legs to avoid damage and wear from the weight of the furniture.
Never drag furniture across floors. Lift and carry to avoid scratches in the surface of the floor.
Avoid walking on your floors in stiletto heels and keep pet nails trimmed to avoid scratching and denting your hardwoods.

Regular Cleaning of Hardwood Floors

Invest in a good quality broom and sweep hardwood floors daily to pick up any loose grains of dirt and dust. You can use a vacuum cleaner without a beater bar to get at dirt between planks or in hard to reach places.

Once a week, damp mop your floors with a solution of ½ cup of white vinegar to a gallon of warm water. Be careful not to over-wet the floor, and dry with a soft towel as you go along to prevent water damage. Do not damp mop daily to avoid damaging the finish of your floor.

For tougher stains or deeper cleaning, use a professional wood-cleaning product according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Generally, that means spraying the product on and cleaning it off with a soft mop.

Hardwood Floor Do’s and Don’ts

DO clean stains on a hardwood floor with a cleaner specifically made for hardwood floors.
DO buff away scuff and heel marks with a soft, dry cloth. Use floor cleaner only if necessary.
DON’T was hardwood floors with a urethane finish, and choose cleaners that don’t leave behind a film or residue. Mop-and-shine products are not recommended.
DO clean sticky spots with a damp towel or sponge.
DON’T use ammonia cleaners or oil soaps on a wood floor. They will dull the finish and may make it difficult to re-coat your floor when you refinish in the future.
DON’T use excessive water in cleaning hardwood floors. Wood expands when wet, so large amounts of water may cause the floor to swell, leading to cracking and splintering of the wood.

Deep Cleaning And Refinishing

Is your floor looking dull and old? Are there stains that will not come up with gentle cleaning? Then you may need to take more drastic measures.

Revive your wood floor by screening and recoating. This process uses an abrasive screen on a floor polisher to abrade the current polyurethane finish on the floor so that you can apply a new coat of urethane. If you are generally handy around the house and do large-scale DIY projects, you can do this yourself. Otherwise, hire a professional.
Stains that have penetrated the finish into the wood below generally require sanding and refinishing. While the process sounds similar to screening, it is much more involved. It will completely remove the old finish and stain, taking the floor down to bare wood that can be re-stained and refinished for a like-new floor.

If you treat your hardwood floors well and keep them clean with regular cleaning, you should get decades of beautiful wear out of them. Regular maintenance and care is the key to beautiful floors that last and last.

Madera Floors provides professional quality wood flooring services including installation, sanding, refinishing, repairs, maintenance, and custom design. At Madera, we only use the highest quality materials/finishes and are always up to date on technological advancements in the wood floor industry. We target contractors, designers, corporate clients, and homeowners in the Northern VA, MD and D.C. areas. Madera’s goal is to meet our client’s budget and timeline while exceeding expectations, thus resulting in repeat business.

Madera Floors specializes in custom finishing, installations and material sourcing for all of your hardwood flooring needs. As flooring contractors, we are always abreast of new techniques and materials in the industry, which allows us to grow while remaining environmentally friendly. As a certified CMP installer we can also perform self-leveling concrete installations. Every project represents our organization; hence our great strides to achieve perfection on each individual project.

Hardwood floors are an investment that will last for a long time with the proper installation and care. There are different modes of installation for engineered wood strips, solid wood strips, and parquet. With all modes of installation moisture testing is imperative to ensure proper installation. Installation can be a painstaking process but we take pride in leaving your home or business looking as beautiful as we found it. Our expert technicians have seen every situation and are proficient in the three different types of installation for hardwood flooring.

Nail Down/Staple Installation In this method we nail down or staple solid or engineered wood strips to the sub-flooring (usually either plywood or plank wood). The floor is done with random length strips. A few strips are placed down and arranged prior to fastening to ensure proper placement and tautness.Glue Down Installation In this method we glue down engineered wood strips or parquet directly to the sub-floor. In these cases the subfloor is usually concrete, so we pay extra attention to moisture.

With glue down installations, it is important to consider any kind of allergies and sensitivities to smell. We use an acrylic based glue which is more mild than some of the other options. Glue down installations can be walked on the next day and furniture can also be moved in.

Floating Installation In this method we glue together the tongue and groove of every plank and the floor floats over a foam cushioned padding. If the flooring has a locking system we can lock the pieces together without glue. This can be used with either laminate or engineered wood floor, but either way the flooring is pre-finished. Not all engineered surfaces can be floated. Floating installation can also be placed over sub-flooring of questionable quality unlike the other two modes. Also, floating floors are a great option if you have multiple layers of flooring and do not want to remove them all. With floating installation the wear layer is important to consider as the thicker the layer the more times it can be refinished. Generally, laminate flooring gives a hollow feeling underfoot with this mode of installation. Remember that floating floors expand and contract as a unit because the pieces are fused together. Allow for as much expansion area as possible.

Refinishing and sanding your hardwood floors is necessary to preserve their quality and beauty. Any refinishing is done solely to enhance the woods natural color and protect it from the elements. The best time to sand and refinish your hardwood floors is when you move into a new house or apartment as all of the furniture, rugs, etc. need to be removed from the area during the process. Proper refinishing should last about 10 years. However, high traffic rooms will need to be done more often.

Pre-finished Hardwood Floors These are the new main stream products in hardwood flooring. They can be acrylic impregnated, engineered, or solid. They have a tough factory finish, which is the main reason for its popularity. They are also extremely easy to install and eliminate the need for messy sanding. Most pre-finished floors done within the last ten years are urethane finished. Test this by placing a couple drops of water on an obscure area. If the area turns white after 15 minutes, you have a waxed finish. Older floors are likely to have shellac or varnish finishes. Unfortunately these do not work well with the newer urethane finishes and must be completely removed if you want a urethane finish. There is also likely to be some amount of aluminum oxide in the newer prefinished floors.

 Unfinished Hardwood This type of flooring comes in solid and engineered, and both must be job site finished. They come in varying lengths and widths. Sanding and finishing can take anywhere from a few days to a week depending on size, stain, and number of top finish coats. Generally the finishes are oil or water based. Our first priority is to protect the beauty of your home so whether you have finished or unfinished floors, we section off other areas and furniture to prevent sanding dust from spreading throughout your home. Our expert technicians also use dust containment systems to limit the amount of dust in the air. And with refinishing, it is important to have as little air flow as possible in the area as airborne particles can become embedded into the newly applied finish. Something as simple as foot traffic or turning on the air conditioner/heating system can kick up dust. So it is better to allow more time to dry to avoid problem areas in your floors.

Many things can happen to a floor over the years. Termites, cable holes, leaky roofs, sink overflows, cats, dogs and reconfigured spaces can leave holes or very odd-looking stains in your hardwood. All is not lost!

Boards can be replaced in such a way that no one will be able to tell that new wood has been added to the floors. When replacing boards, we take care to lace the new boards in with the old ones, so there is not a square or rectangle shape where the boards have been replaced.Other precautions are taken to match up the wood as best as possible. As wood ages, it darkens. This is why we purchase reclaimed wood in various sizes and species. If aged wood is not available for your floor, we take care to stain the boards that we are replacing to match the color of your existing floor as close as possible.

Custom Wood Floors are a medium of specialty floor coverings that includes, but not limited to these Types of Custom Wood Floors: Accents, Borders, Domestic Species, Exotic Species, Feature Strip, Inlays, Marquetry, Mixed Media, Medallions & Crest, Painted or stenciled, Parquet, Parquetry, Plank, Reclaimed & Recovered,Distressed, Specialty Products, Stained-Tinted or Colors Developed during the middle ages in Europe, elaborate designs, borders, inlays & medallions were crafted for significant buildings such as castles, & monasteries. Today these wood flooring styles are reflected in the modern day manufacturing and can be enhanced with something as simple as a strip border around the perimeter of the room or as ornate as a coat of arms in a foyer or a great room. Using exotic woods from around the world, these custom designs & patterns can add to and become the center focal point of any room. Giving each room a Custom-one-of-a-kind wood floor. Custom designs can give a homeowner a “one-of-a-kind” floor and is a wonderful way to put your personality and individual character in a home. The choices of pattern, design, exotic woods sources and an artistic flare can provide a limitless number of possibilities.

Floors with oil and urethane-type finishes are extremely durable. With just minimal care your floor will look beautiful for years to come. The key to preserving your floor is protecting its finish. Hardwood floors require minimal care, but it is important that you provide regular care.

Visit us online at: www.maderafloors.com

Visit our blog at: www.maderafloors.blogspot.com

Thanks

Madera Floors. Fairfax, VA.

A laminate hardwood floor installation rips out all the high-maintenance management and warping woes that accompany real wood flooring projects. Flooring frustrations are replaced with easy-care, authentic wood looks and textures that are a snap to install. What are the seven main reasons behind the phenomenal growth in do-it-yourself laminate hardwood floor installations?

Reason 1. Laminate Hardwood Flooring Installations Happy Over Any Sub-Floor

There is no need for an expensive and time-consuming tearing up of the sub-floor. Glueless laminate hardwood floor installations can be done with confidence and success over virtually any existing type of flooring. This includes vinyl, tile, concrete and real wood strips. The only exceptions to the rule are carpeting and real hardwood on concrete.

Proper preparation of the sub-floor is vital, however. The surface needs to be absolutely smooth and even. Sand down all peaked joints and other bumps. Use a filler material for any holes or uneven areas. Make sure that the floor is spotless. Any bit of gravel trapped under your new floor, will eventually become an eyesore.

Reason 2. Laminate Hardwood Floor Installations A Long-Term Investment

With today’s technology, the core and wear layers of laminate flooring are of a superb quality. Floors are treated to be highly moisture resistant. The aluminum oxide finish of the wear layer ensures maximum protection against scratches, fading, scuff marks, and stains. Many manufacturers include warranties of between 15 and 30 years. By choosing a quality decorating and interior design product for your floors, and following installation and maintenance instructions carefully, you will be ensured of stylish, elegant looks for years to come.

Reason 3. Care-Free, Calamity-Free Flooring For Your Family Home

No overloaded parent has time for finicky floor care day in and day out. With a laminate hardwood floor installation, you will lighten the cleaning load significantly. A mop and brushless vacuum take care of most chores. When necessary, a damp mop is used for a quick wipe. Flooring manufacturers supply dedicated cleaners for tougher spots. If there is a mishap with lipstick or paint, acetone nail polish remover should take care of it instantly. Always check with your flooring supplier to make sure that any cleaning process or solution complies with your warranty conditions. If you deviate from the guidelines, you may void your warranty.

Reason 4. Banish Allergies And Asthma With Laminate Flooring

If your kids suffer from dust-related allergies, new floors may offer the solution you are searching for. No matter how diligent you are with cleaning, carpeting remains a dust-trap. By replacing the flooring surfaces of your home with laminate hardwood floor installations, you will minimize your family’s exposure to the offending, irritating particles. The hard, smooth surface is easy to keep spotless. There are no fibres that are reluctant to give up their share of dirt. A quick wipe with a damp mop takes care of the dust problem in a jiffy.

Reason 5. Easy-To-Install Project For Home Remodeling Rookies

Laminate hardwood floor installations are a snap with the latest click-’n-go engineering. No more sticky, messy, frustrating and apprehensive adhesive struggles. Even the most ‘unhandy’ amateur handyman can tackle these glueless flooring projects with confidence. There is no need to call in the services of a professional hardwood flooring contractor. You can successfully install a new, ready-to-use floor within about a day. As long as you make sure that you don’t have problems with moisture in the sub-floor, and are able to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines closely, you should be able to complete the installation on your own.

Reason 6. Tempting Authentic Real Hardwood Grains And Textures

From Pergo Flooring, to Armstrong Flooring and Bruce Hardwood Flooring now include every real wood grain under the sun. Shadings vary from light and airy to the rich, warm hues of the darker woods. Textures are as close to the real thing as possible. Planks are now even beveled to give the appearance of real wood planks. A laminate hardwood floor installation can now come with rustic, weathered looks.

Recently the ranges have been expanded to include a variety of realistic ceramic tile and stone tile finishes, complete with grout lines. Every type of decorating or interior design project is catered for, from old-world to contemporary. The flooring planks can be matte or may present a gleaming, shiny face to the world. Thanks to innovative technology, the days of plastic and fake-looking laminates are long gone.

Reason 7. Much To Do About Mishaps On Laminates

If you have kids and pets you will fall in love with laminates. No only will you have far fewer worries about crayon stains, puddles, and other potential flooring fiasco’s, you will know that in the event of a major accident, a section of flooring can replaced with ease. As long as you keep an unopened box or two of flooring planks in storage, you will be equipped to re-do an area of flooring in no time. Whereas a damaged carpet has to be replaced completely, a laminate hardwood floor installation allows you to handle the inevitable family mishap with a smile.

Have a bit of decorating and interior design face-lift fun by joining the laminate hardwood floor installation crowd!

Suppliers of floor coatings to businesses and do-it-yourself home owners are deploying real-time technical phone support in order to solve the problem of improper installation.

The trick to creating a quality floor coating is getting the coating to adhere to the substrate surface with out chipping, peeling, or lifting. The key is preparation of the floor surface. But good surface preparation is a direct function of the experience and training of the applicator. Technical help lines now provide the business maintenance crews and homeowner the necessary on-the-job training and factory direct experience by phone. This kind of personal support greatly enhances the custom-built kits that suppliers are providing to homeowners.

Highly chemical- and wear-resistant, epoxy coatings have been used on concrete floors for decades in the industrial arena. These coated floors are easy to maintain with enhanced beauty and reduced wear. Unfortunately, these industrial grade coatings are generally not placed on the shelves of hardware stores and big box retailers due to liability concerns. In addition, store clerks are usually unable to provide the needed guidance for proper application of these industrial grade products.

One epoxy coating manufacture that is leading the way on this type of support is Durall Industrial Flooring of Minneapolis, MN. Durall enables individuals and project managers to obtain free, job-specific quotes on materials as well as nationwide turnkey installations by completing a simple questionnaire at www.concrete-floor-coatings.com.

For photo examples and more detail, visit www.concrete-floor-coatings.com

For more information, contact Harvey Chichester at harvey@concrete-floor-coatings.com

Phone: 1-800-466-8910 or 952-888-1488 (24/7)

Have you ever wondered how to install hardwood floor panels to make your home beautiful inside? There are many methods of installing hardwood flooring currently in use. One of the best do it yourself hardwood floors is the floating hardwood floor. The term floating doesn’t refer to a floor that is sitting in liquid. Floating means that, while the floor is fastened to itself, it is not fastened down to the subsurface.

A floating hardwood floor has some disadvantages you should be aware of before proceeding with your installation. These floors will sometimes feel like you’re walking on a bubble. And, each bubble you step on will have a creaky sound.

On the other hand, those bubbles give the floor a much softer feel than a well-fastened hardwood floor. And, the floating floor is much easier to maintain. Best of all, it is one of the cheapest types of hardwood floors to install.

Before continuing with the installation of a floating hardwood floor, we highly recommend that you consider using oak as your hardwood floor material. Oak looks beautiful and provides lasting durability.

-Tools Needed to Install a Floating Hardwood Floor

Broom and Dust Pan – It is important to keep everything clean as you go. It is particularly important to keep the saw dust out from under and between your panels where it can really throw things off kilter. If it gets in there, there is no way to get it out without the very difficult process of hardware floor disassembly.

Carpenter’s Crayon – You’ll have to cut up your panels to make them fit in the corners and make them go around objects that cannot be removed from the room having the hardwood floor installed. You may also want to use your carpenter’s crayon to mark a layout pattern of where to place your flooring panels.

Circular Saw – Your saw is what you will use as you cut along the lines you drew with your carpenters crayon.

Claw hammer – In most places, you will use a rubber mallet to help push the boards together, but in those places near the wall where you don’t have enough room to swing the mallet, you can use the claw hammer to fit them together.

Cushioning Surface – You can make your floating hardwood floor feel even softer to the feet with the use of a cushioning surface under the floor. You would be shocked by the difference between a floor with the surface and a floor without the surface if you could try the two side by side.

Cutter Knife – The cutter knife comes in handy in more places than you would expect as you work on your floor. But the main reason we recommend this tool is so that you can make minor cuts on the panel ends when you just can’t quite make them fit together.

Glue – Floating hardwood floors aren’t supposed to be glued together. However, you might find you get better results if you just put a bit of glue at the end of each panel as you connect them. Of course, this will mean you’ll need to be very careful not to get any glue on your floor surface.

Nails – You will need to nail the floating floor to the wall strips. It may help to use a drill to do pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting, but if you’re a gambler, you can just hammer these nails in without pilot holes. Most people do that anyways.

Rubber Mallet – The rubber mallet is what you use to fit the panels together at the joints. However, you need to be very careful not to hit the panels too hard and damage the panel surfaces.

-Preparing to Install Floating Hardwood Floor Panels

Before you install your floating hardwood floor panels, you need to get your cushioning sheet installed. You can use your cutter knife to make it fit. Some people find that making it into many small pieces is much more manageable than trying to fit a large piece in the room. These pieces should be laid in the same direction as your panel rows.

One of the nice parts of using a cushioning sheet is that debris on the sheet or lumps in the surface below it have a less dramatic effect on the floor. However, you should still try to get all of these straightened out to the extent you can see them.

For debris, just use your broom and dust pan to remove them. It’s not such a big of a one-time task when you consider the implications are pretty close to permanent if you fail to remove them.

-Installing a Floating Hardwood Floor

1.Place your first panel in the corner with the ends with a cavity in them towards the walls.

2.Put a little bit of glue in the cavity of the next panel.

3.Attach the next panel to the first panel quickly after step two.

4.You may need to work with the rubber mallet gently to ensure that the two panels come together snuggly. If the wall gets in the way of the rubber mallet, you can use your claw hammer to nudge it in place.

5.Continue this until you get to the end of the row where you will need to mark off the excess length of your last panel with the carpenter’s crayon. Then cut the panel to fit using the circular saw.

6.Use the remaining piece of the panel to start the next row of hardwood.

7.If you are using the glue, as in step two, you’ll need to be careful to get the entire adhesive off of each row as you complete it or it may do permanent damage to the hardwood surface.

8.Make sure you fit your entire pieces well, especially the last corner piece. If you have fit everything together just right, your floor will be much more stable. And, it will look better after the next step.

9.Now you go around all of the room walls and place the wall strips. You should nail these strips to the wall and to the floor. This will stabilize your floor. This will also make the edges of your new floor look better.

-How to Install Floating Hardwood Floor – Clean Up

As with any big woodworking project, you can expect to have a mess as you go. There are such debris as saw dust, cut splinters, glue spots, and more. While you were trying to clean as you went, you should really do a final inspection and cleaning at the completion of the project. You don’t want any saw dust or wood chips scraping across your new floor before you even get to admire its smooth shine.

After your floor has had a day to settle you can clean it with a mildly wet mop to get everything else up that you might have missed. You need to dry the floor up right away after mopping, of course. Otherwise, your wood will swell and lumps will form.

-Hindsight Tips for Installing Your Floating Hardwood Floor

You do not need to be terribly careful with the cushioning sheets. Don’t spend all day trying to get exact measurements. As long as there are no major overlaps or separations between them, your floor should be just fine.

When you are working with your hardwood panels, it is important not to rush. You should not be moving on and placing another panel until the current panel is completely and firmly connected to the other panels. But be very careful when using the rubber mallet and other tools on the panels not to cause surface damage.

The surfaces are quite fragile when they are not yet anchored in place. It is very hard to go back and fix later if you missed a panel early in the installation process.

Be careful when measuring your panels for cutting at the end of the row that you are marking off the right part of your panel for cutting. One of the most common mistakes is to have the panel backwards while measuring it and then end up with the wrong pieces being the lengths you need. Save yourself some time and be careful.

-Feeling Good after You Install Your Floating Hardwood Floor

You have saved a lot of money by installing a floating hardwood floor yourself. And, if you don’t like it, you
‘ve chosen one of the easiest hardwood floors to replace. But, of course you like it.

Hardwood floors look great. And, your new floating hardwood floor feels great too with its cushioning surface. Your neighbor’s glued down floor may not creak much, but your neighbor’s feet don’t feel like they’re floating when he walks on his floor.

There are different ways of keeping your hardwood floors on its tiptop shape. Maintaining the original condition of your floor can prevent you from experiencing future problems.

Having hardwood floors has always been nice. It makes us feel closer to the nature. It makes our house look more elegant and rich. And more importantly, it gives our house a homey feel. Most people think that having this kind of floor is hard to maintain. Fortunately, it’s untrue! Simple maintenance is required.

The condition and lifespan of your floor depends on how you take care of it. Few things must be taken into considerations in taking care of your hardwood floors. Different wood finish requires different kind of care. However, there are also some general ways of taking care of your hardwood floors:

* Keep your hardwood floor dry. Never let spills or any kind of fluid sit on your hardwood floor. This can cause warping on your floor. When spills occur, make sure to wipe it off right away with soft cloth. Never use dripping rugs or even damp rugs on your floor. Wet rugs can cause dullness and discoloration on your hardwood floors.

* Keep your hardwood floors away from too much sun exposure. Too much exposure to sunlight can cause damage to any organic material. This can make the color of your floor lose its original color. It is best to use curtains or blinds to keep sunlight from getting through your house.

* You should place fabric or any felt materials under the leg of your furniture to avoid scratching your hardwood floor. Lifting furniture when moving them can also avoid scratches on floor surfaces.

Walking on hardwood floors with your shoes on can also damage your floor. Make sure that your shoes don’t have rocks or anything stuck on their soles that can scratch your floor. To keep this from happening, place doormats on your entrance so any abrasive things can be dusted off upon entering your house. High-heeled shoes can also abrade hardwood floors.

Keeping your floor clean, dust and grit free can prolong the life of your hardwood floors. Simple cleaning can do your floor wonders. You can use soft bristled brooms in sweeping your floor. Brooms with fine, exploded ends can effectively trap dusts and grits. These dusts and grits can ruin your floor finish. They can roughen your floor.

Vacuums can be also used to provide a specially made attachment for wooden floors. Never use vacuums with beater bars for it can cause dents on the floor. A vacuum with a brush attachment would be better.

Experts say that damp mopping is the best way to clean your hardwood floors. Water or any kind of cleaning agents will not harm your new hardwood floors unless the finish has already worn off. Make sure that your mop is damp and not wet. Mopping can be done as often as once a week.

Waxing your hardwood floor is also one way of protecting it. It can make your wood floor new again. Buff your floor after applying a wax to make it luster. Wax can protect your old hardwood floor especially if the finish has already worn off and you don’t have plans of having it refinish right away. Wax on floor can be easily removed by damp mopping. Just reapply the wax to make your floor looking like new again.

Different floor care products are now available in the market. However, not all are safe to use. Oil-based cleansers can cause permanent damage to your wood floors. Oil particles can build up on the surface of your floor. Water-based cleansers are safer for use on wood floors. To be sure of the kind of care or products to use on your hardwood floors, you must always check with manufacturer.

In the wood flooring industry, the term ‘old growth’ continues to be the subject of interpretation and controversy. At Madera Floors we make it our business to know more about wood than any other company, and to educate our customers so that they can make more informed purchasing decisions. We frequently address questions about ‘old growth’ trees, especially in relation to reclaimed timber. In fact, we have talked with many consumers who thought the terms meant the same thing and were misled into thinking their old growth flooring was the same as our antique reclaimed flooring. Here we define some of the terms and address questions surrounding the mystery of ‘old growth’.

Old Growth refers to established forests that, up until the time trees are cut, have had little or no disruption. Advocates of cutting old growth timbers suggest that pruning selected trees is good for the forest. We disagree. Old growth forests maintain themselves through a natural process that does not include cutting into the delicate fabric woven by nature.

How Old is “Old” Growth? The actual age that determines “old” growth varies depending on the specie, but it refers to the age at which a tree has reached its maturity. For an eastern white pine, it is between 130-150 years, while many of the hardwoods reach maturity at 80 years. But, what is most important is that at maturity and thereafter the old growth tree is still contributing to the ecosystem in which it lives.

Virgin Growth refers to dense stands of various species of hardwood or pine trees that are indigenous to their habitat; they have never been harvested. Many virgin forests are protected, but tragically there are also many that are still being cut today for purposes that include mass-produced wood flooring. Essentially, virgin timber is old growth that has never been cut, while old growth may or may not be virgin timber.

Reclaimed Wood is also referred to as Antique wood, and for us the terms are interchangeable when describing the wood we use to make our floors. We agree that old growth flooring is beautiful; however, we prefer to reuse this majestic timber that was originally cut to build structures that have shaped our history in the United States and in interesting places all over the world.

“Deconstruction” is the core of the reclaimed wood industry. The emphasis is on utilizing materials that have outlived their usefulness and would otherwise be demolished, discarded or left to decay. Deconstruction helps to close the resource loop that we now realize is so valuable in this world of finite resources.In recycling this precious material there is a significant positive environmental impact.

Deconstruction differs from ‘demolition’ in that it is a painstaking process involving the selective dismantlement of building components. We work with experts who carefully manage dismantling projects to preserve the grand dimensions of the beams, posts and floor joists; this will be reflected in your floor as we work to maintain the superior widths and lengths of these ancient timbers.

Demolition, on the other hand, is unfortunately the more common method of taking down a building. Implosion or ‘wrecking-ball’ style demolition is relatively inexpensive and offers a quick method of clearing sites for new structures. Consequently this process results in significant waste and unusable material.

For more information please visit our website at

www.maderafloors.com or our blog www.maderafloors.blogspot.com

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There are three broad steps to doing your floor project: planning and preparation, repairing, and applying the coating. This article is the third in a three part series, and deals with applying the epoxy paint to the floor.

General guidelines for applying an epoxy coating to your floor:

Do no harm.
Investing in preparation produces the most years of service.
Let the chemicals and equipment do the work.
What can go wrong, will go wrong, unless you think ahead.
Technique is what separates mortals from Rembrandts.
An once of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Now let’s get started with tips on how to coat your floor with an epoxy or urethane floor paint.

Plan the job.

Good floor prep is key to a long lasting floor.

Take a break.

Mix 200 strokes.

Easy work makes for a better job

No one is perfect

Don’t worry about tricks of gravity

A rag may not save you

Technique, technique, technique.

This is an application pattern I like to teach and can serve you very well. Tip your roller and remove it quickly before it fills with liquid. Apply a quick wet line 3 or 4 feet back from where you had stopped coating. Now fill in the area between that wet line and your previous rolled area. As you overlap the new wet part, . The strong two-part coatings you are applying are not the water-based latexes that wipe easily off with a rag or a little water. If you get the coating on something you did not want to coat, it may be less harmful to leave it than to smear it all over the place. You may be better off chipping it off once it dries a little, or coating over it with paint that matches what you got it on.
. As you put your first coat down, you will find things, bugs, sand, water, lint, and the like. What was in the air eventually will be on the floor. Remember this is a two-coat process. Yes, remove what you can as you go but those small bits of debris may be easier to remove when you screen between coats and sweep before your second coat.
. I do floors lots of floors and still have misses, marks, and errors. I just can’t rely on myself to be perfect all the time. That’s why two coats are always planned.
. Tape your cutting brush to a broom handle, use a wheeled bucket for 18-inch rollers, and several pails if using 9-inch rollers, and wear a mask if using solvent based products. Save your back and let yourself move quickly. Moving fast is more fun but it also sets a rhythm, which keeps a repetitive job interesting enough to maintain focus.
Two-part flooring products can produce floors that click when you first walk over them. That clicking often means that the two parts were not mixed well. Clicking is sucking dust off your feet and could cause both lifting and discoloration problems down the road. Yes, the floor will usually stop clicking and harden, but it may come from aging rather than a strong chemical change. Mixing is not a science, but you must be able to count to 200.
I always take a break after floor preparation to let the floor dry. Putting down a coating can be smooth and uniform or splotchy with misses. A little rest before the artistic part of the job will improve the quality of your application process.
For this article, we will assume that you have done a good job of doing you’re preparation and repair work already.
Two-part coatings harden in the can once mixed, so it is best to have everything you need at the start of your job. A useful first step is to go to a website like www.concrete-floor-coatings.com for a free cost analysis report that also lists everything you need to do your job including step-by-step instructions.
you re-wet your roller
and as you overlap the previous area your roller is re-moistened. When you get to the end, roll back over the same area a second time. This re-rolling will spread any lines that may have come off your roller edges as you move across the floor.

Push the roller on, not off.

I always flip my roller so that I move towards the open end. This little step pushes the roller onto the frame not off it. Each time the roller moves on the frame you have the danger of opening a gap at the end that fills the roller with coating as you dip. Soon you are getting lines as the liquid drips out of the ends of the roller. And soon the roller is sliding back and forth on your frame because the interior is now very slippery.

Don’t hit the roller.

If your roller cover starts to slide off the frame, don’t tap the roller, tap the frame. If you tap the roller, you often get dents in the roller that show up as marks as you roll. If you tap the frame end of the roller, it will slide on without changing its shape.

There is dirt in that pail.

I can’t say how often I have compromised the quality of a job by pouring my last amount of coating out of the pail onto the floor as I exit. The problem is every piece of sand, lint, or bug that had stuck to the roller is resting at the bottom of the pail. Right where I have wanted the floor to look its best (at the entrance or exit), I have poured out all my debris on the floor so that I can use that last 3-oz. of coating. Don’t do it! You will be sorry.

Screen the floor after your primer coat repairs are made

. By screening your floor with a 60 grit screen after any additional repairs are made, you can usually shave your floor flat. This screening removes bubbles, lint, sand, bugs, leaves, and fillers that are above the desired surface.

Sweep your floor with a kitchen type broom before coating.

Push brooms just don’t pick up enough of the small grains. A kitchen broom takes a little longer but does a better job.

Vacuum the corners

. It is just too hard to get grains of sand and other small particles out of corners and along baseboards or out of holes unless you use a vacuum.